REAL DRIVING FOOTAGE
HPI Stage-D24 in action
Two perspectives, one track: watch the HPI Stage-D24 drift on our mat with its body fitted and with its chassis exposed.
Real driving footage on a DriftTracks mat. Colour and contrast adjusted.
Find a matching 1:24 track
DriftTracks · Setup roadmap
HPI Stage-D24. Your path to smoother drifts.
A well-tuned setup lays the groundwork. Smooth, controlled drifts come from practice, carefully measured throttle and your own counter-steering inputs.
Our practical settings on DriftTracks mats are starting points, not HPI factory specifications or guaranteed ideal values. Check free movement first, then ride height and geometry.
Watch our drift videos01Tyres, free movement & height
01Fit lower-grip tyresChoose suitable drift tyres; check dimensions and wheel fit before ordering.
The stock tyres have too much grip for the slow drift we want on our mat. Suitable lower-grip drift tyres from other micro-drift models or manufacturers can make drifts slower and more controlled, with a more realistic look. Check dimensions and wheel fit before ordering.
Tyres first, geometry nextTyres are the foundation for the remaining setup. Changing wheels can affect not only grip and driving feel, but also ground clearance and chassis attitude.
Your checkCheck ride height with the battery and body fitted on a level surface before readjusting camber and toe.
02Check that the front wheels spin freelyCheck that both front wheels spin freely straight ahead and when steering.
Both front wheels must spin as freely and easily as possible – straight ahead and across the full steering sweep to the left and right. They must never bind, catch or rub when you steer. Check them again after changes to track width, camber or steering. This concerns the free rotation of the wheels themselves, not just the movement of the steering servo.
Free movement in every check positionA wheel can spin freely when straight yet still rub during counter-steering. Clearance therefore needs to remain throughout the steering range you use and at different suspension positions.
Your checkCheck both front wheels individually: straight ahead, at typical counter-steering angles and at maximum lock.
03Make the front suspension move smoothlyLightly lubricate sliding points with a suitable dry lubricant.
Lightly lubricate the moving sliding points of the front suspension with a suitable, plastic-compatible dry lubricant so the suspension responds softly and evenly. We use dry lubricant so less dust and hair sticks to the sliding points and interferes with the suspension. Keep the tyres and the driving surface clean while doing so.
Check free suspension movement before setting ride height. Do not conceal binding with extra spring preload.
Check suspension and linkage separatelyThis view shows the front suspension and steering mounting points. The linkage point affects the relationship between steering angles; free compression and extension remain a separate, equally important check.
Your checkAfter a change, check joint movement, screw engagement and wheel clearance. This image is not a universal installation plan.
Free movement, not concealed bindingDry lubricant can be part of front suspension maintenance. It does not replace checking for stressed, incorrectly seated or binding components.
Your checkThe suspension must move without catching and settle consistently; do not conceal binding with additional preload.
04After changing tyres: check ride height and chassis attitudeSmaller wheels reduce ground clearance. Check front and rear height, adjust spring preload if needed and check the lowest suspension parts for rubbing.
1. Check height and chassis attitude
When changing to other drift tyres and wheels, the outside diameter may be smaller than the HPI stock tyres. Wheel-and-tyre combinations around 22 or 22.5 mm outside diameter are one example. What matters is the actual diameter of the assembled wheel, not just the rim specification.
Smaller wheels bring the car closer to the ground. Check both clearance and the chassis attitude between the front and rear axles. If the front sits too low after the change, readjust the height. However, making all four wheels equally smaller does not necessarily create a new tilt. Measure and check first rather than automatically raising the front.
Front too lowThis side view shows the low front of our HPI. Smaller complete wheels can reduce ground clearance, so check chassis attitude between the front and rear axles after a wheel change.
Your checkDo not raise the front automatically. First check the ready-to-drive car on a level surface; weight distribution cannot be inferred from this photo.
Height correctedThis image provides a comparison for corrected chassis attitude, not a universal ride-height measurement. The final setting depends on your wheels and your ready-to-drive car.
Your checkCheck with the battery and body fitted: sufficient ground clearance, remaining droop travel and free movement during compression and steering.
2. Adjust spring preload in small steps
On our HPI build, suitable spacers at the upper spring seat can increase preload and raise the front, provided downtravel remains available. Dimensionally accurate 3D-printed rings or suitable burr-free washers from model suppliers or hardware shops are options. They must sit properly and must not obstruct the spring guide.
Use preload deliberatelyThe tool points to the upper spring seat. Spacers placed here can change preload and ride height while droop travel remains; they do not increase the spring rate itself.
Your checkWork in small, equal steps on both sides. Do not stack spacers up to the droop stop or use them to conceal binding suspension.
Start with equal spacer thickness on both sides and make small changes. After each adjustment, place the ready-to-drive car on a flat surface, gently compress the front suspension and release it. It must move freely and repeatedly return to a comparable resting position. Include the battery and body in the final height check.
How to check ride height and spring movement
The clip shows the front suspension compressing and returning, first in real time and then in slow motion. Look for free movement without catching and a repeatable resting position after release.
Original silent clip with German on-screen labels. The included slow-motion section runs at 0.65× speed. It demonstrates spring movement, not a measured damping curve or oil damping.
3. Main chassis plate: prevent grounding
If you run complete wheels measuring 22 or 22.5 mm after changing tyres, keep an eye on the main chassis plate as well, not just the lower front suspension bush. With little ground clearance, the plate can ground on uneven surfaces or a PVC mat with slight waves. This slows the car abruptly and interrupts a steady drift, making the driving look unsettled rather than clean and smooth.
Lower is not always betterYour photo shows the low main chassis plate from the side. With 22 or 22.5 mm complete wheels, the remaining clearance can be insufficient on uneven ground or small PVC waves. Plate contact slows the drift abruptly.
Your checkCheck ready to drive and test slowly on your surface. The photo compares chassis positions; it does not provide a measurable clearance value.
More clearance for a steady driftThe second side view shows the higher main chassis plate position. If your chassis grounds, our 0.5 mm washer beneath the T-bar is a starting point for adjustment, not an automatic modification for every car.
Your checkAfter adjustment, check chassis attitude, free suspension movement and clearance with the battery and body fitted, then drive a slow comparison lap.
If the main chassis plate grounds, our recommended starting point is a 0.5 mm washer used as a spacer under the T-bar. This is our practical tip, not an HPI factory specification.
Start with 0.5 mm beneath the T-barThe tool indicates the T-bar mounting area from below. This locates our chassis-height spacer tip. A suitable burr-free washer beneath the T-bar is our recommendation if the main chassis plate grounds on your driving surface.
Your checkDisconnect the battery, check seating and screw engagement, and avoid stressing the T-bar. Afterwards check for contact ready to drive, during compression and while steering.
Do not add the spacer automatically: use it only when clearance is genuinely insufficient. Disconnect the battery before working. The washer must fit the mounting surface, be burr-free and sit properly beneath the T-bar; afterwards check screw engagement and free suspension movement. With the battery and body fitted, recheck front-to-rear chassis attitude and clearance during gentle compression and steering. Test slowly on your actual driving surface to confirm the plate stays clear. Flatten waves in the mat wherever possible: extra height is not a substitute for a level surface.
02Steering & geometry
05Allow more usable steering angleClip the knuckle stops; afterwards, always adjust steering EPA endpoints so the wheels cannot fold over.
Our tip for more usable steering lock: clip the steering stops on the knuckle with suitable pliers. First identify exactly which small stops limit steering travel. Disconnect the battery, remove the affected parts if needed and clip only the clearly identified stops, leaving joint mounts and load-bearing areas untouched. This is an optional, irreversible modification for experienced builders.
Essential afterwards: adjust EPA (End Point Adjustment), the steering endpoints on your transmitter, separately for left and right. Start with limited travel and increase it only as far as the wheels cannot fold over and the linkage stays within its usable range. Check both directions during compression too: nothing must bind, rub or make the servo push against resistance. Then also check the gyro’s counter-steering movement.
Use steering lock without contactMore steering lock only helps when the wheels remain free to move. Check both sides: free movement in one direction does not establish clearance in the other.
Your checkSteer slowly to both limits and also check during compression whether tyres or rims touch any components.
06Set the front axle widerSet the front slightly wider than the rear; keep the wheels clear when steering.
Set the front track slightly wider than the rear and make equal changes on both sides. On our setup, this gives the front axle more guidance: the car can be easier to guide calmly through a drift, with smoother transitions. The wheels must remain clear throughout the steering range.
On our build, a wider rear track tends towards more rear grip. Front-axle guidance then becomes less dominant and the drift can feel more abrupt rather than clean and smooth. That is not the balance we want here. This is our setup tendency, not a guaranteed effect for every tyre and surface combination. Test small changes individually and then recheck toe and clearance.
Match track width to clearanceTrack width is part of your front axle's overall geometry. Changing it alters the space around the wheels and needs to be assessed together with steering lock and tyre contact.
Your checkMake equal changes on both sides, then check both wheels for free movement during counter-steering and suspension travel.
07Camber and caster: tune tyre contact in the driftOur starting point is around −6° to −7° front camber. Less can also work. Check tyre contact during counter-steering and always prioritise free suspension movement over a specific number.
Our starting point: −6° to −7°
For our HPI Stage-D24, we use about 6–7° negative front camber as a starting point. Negative camber means the tops of the wheels lean inward. Measure initially with the steering straight and the car at ready-to-drive ride height.
Look beyond the camber angleThe front view helps you compare the inclination of both front wheels. For your drift, it also matters how tyre contact changes at the steering angles you actually use.
Your checkReadjust toe and Ackermann after every camber change, then check suspension movement and counter-steering. Free movement still matters more than a particular angle.
This value is not mandatory. Less negative camber can also work well, depending on tyres, surface, steering angle and your driving style. On our setup, more negative camber can feel more agile at the initial steering input. This is a tuning tendency, not a general promise that more camber always brings more steering or grip.
Distinguish camber from caster
Static camber describes wheel inclination with straight steering, but does not by itself describe the wheel position during a turn. Caster is the steering-axis inclination viewed from the side. Caster and steering geometry influence how wheel inclination changes while steering.
Check tyre contact during counter-steeringThis angled view shows why a straight-ahead check alone is insufficient. Camber and caster affect tyre contact during steering in different ways; adding camber does not replace every effect of changing caster.
Your checkOptimise the leading tyre’s contact at your most-used drift steering angle, check both sides and readjust toe/Ackermann after camber changes. This HPI assembly has no separate stock caster adjustment.
The HPI build shown here does not give us a separate stock caster adjustment. We therefore use camber to tune tyre contact at the counter-steering angles we actually drive. This does not replace all the effects of a caster change.
With the existing caster, tune camber so the leading front tyre has the best possible contact patch at the steering angle you use most often in a drift. Check the equivalent situation in both drift directions: the main working angle matters more than perfect contact only with straight steering.
After every camber change, recheck and readjust toe and the Ackermann progression. The new wheel inclination changes the geometry, so do not simply retain the previous steering setup without checking it.
Check both front wheels during counter-steering
Look at both front wheels: not only the more heavily loaded wheel in the corner, but also the front wheel leading in the drift. The actual drift motion and counter-steering matter. Do not automatically equate the leading wheel with the inside wheel according to steering direction.
Check contact with straight steering, typical counter-steering angles and maximum usable lock, in both directions. Do not force both tyres to have full contact at every angle. What matters is a controllable combination of tyre contact, freely spinning wheels and smooth suspension.
08Tune static toe and Ackermann separatelyStart neutral to slightly toe-out. Keep the wheels near-parallel through steering, opening slightly at the end; urgently avoid toe-in while steering.
Static toe: with straight steering
Static toe describes wheel alignment at a specified ride height with the steering straight. With toe-out, the front edges point apart; with toe-in, they point towards each other. For our HPI baseline, start with neutral to slight front toe-out.
Ackermann: while steering
Ackermann describes the relationship between the steering angles of the two front wheels during steering. For our HPI drift setup, aim for near-parallel wheels throughout the usable steering range, opening slightly towards toe-out at the end. Slight toe-out elsewhere in the sweep is acceptable too. Check the progression in both directions, free wheel rotation and suspension movement, not just one maximum steering angle.
Urgently avoid toe-in while steering: for our setup, the wheels should not close towards each other. Check the full usable steering sweep in both directions and correct the linkage if this occurs.
Measure and compare our toe settings
Compare toe consistentlyThis overview shows our steering toe setting, not a bumpsteer check. The dimensions belong to our camber and track width; do not copy them to your car without checking. Consistent measuring conditions make the adjustment repeatable.
Your checkMeasure equivalent steering points on both sides at the same height and corresponding steering positions so left and right are set identically.
Consistent points, useful measurementsThis close-up shows our toe measurement. The reading depends on camber, track width and measuring points. The aim is not to copy our number but to set your steering identically on both sides and compare its progression while steering.
Your checkRepeat measurements on both sides; readjust toe/Ackermann after every camber or track-width change. Compare straight ahead and at corresponding steering angles in both directions.
The two caliper photos show our toe settings, not a bumpsteer measurement. The dimensions depend on our camber and track width and are not universal millimetre targets. Always measure the steering while adjusting it: compare equivalent points on the left and right at the same ride height and corresponding steering positions so both sides are set identically. Check straight ahead and at matching angles to the left and right. Remeasure and readjust toe/Ackermann after changing camber or track width.
Bumpsteer: during suspension travel
Bumpsteer, in contrast, is a change in toe or wheel steering angle caused by suspension compression or extension with the steering input unchanged. Check it separately in the next step.
For this HPI drift baseline, we do not recommend deliberately tuning a toe change towards toe-in on droop.
The Ackermann mounting points are shown in the detail photo under “Make the front suspension move smoothly”.09Bumpsteer: keep wheel alignment as constant as possible through suspension travelCheck whether toe changes during compression and extension. Our baseline is minimal bumpsteer. A slight increase in toe-out on droop remains an optional fine-tuning experiment.
Baseline: near-constant wheel alignment
When the front wheels open or close during compression or extension despite an unchanged steering input, this is bumpsteer. It can affect the driving feel even though you have not applied more steering on the transmitter.
For our HPI baseline on DriftTracks mats, start with as little bumpsteer as possible: toe or wheel steering angles should change as little as possible within the suspension travel actually used. Check with straight steering first, then at typical counter-steering angles.
Adjust steering-link mounts deliberately
Suitable washers can change the height of the steering-link mounting points and therefore the bumpsteer curve. These spacers serve a different purpose from spring-preload spacers. Check the appropriate position and thickness against the actual geometry.
Identify toe changes during suspension travelThis top view shows a front axle check. Bumpsteer means that toe changes during compression or extension even though your steering input stays the same.
Your checkMove the axle slowly and measure rather than estimating. The photo does not specify spacer thickness or installation position; near-constant wheel alignment remains our starting point.
How to check bumpsteer
- Set ride height, camber and static toe first.
- Keep steering input constant. Exclude gyro corrections during the check and do not run the drivetrain. Do not push against the servo.
- Move the front suspension slowly through the compression and extension range used. Observe both sides and measure where possible rather than guessing.
- If wheel alignment changes, adjust the steering-link mounting in small steps and recheck. Start symmetrically on the left and right.
- Then recheck static toe, screw engagement, joint movement, wheel clearance and behaviour during counter-steering.
The photo illustrates the check. It is not a measured spacer installation plan or before-and-after proof. It does not establish washer thickness, mounting position or adjustment direction.
03Rear suspension, gyro & throttle
10Adjust the rear suspension carefullyLoosen the T-bar screws only slightly; the mounting must not develop loose play.
For a rear end that responds more softly, you can slightly loosen the screws on the T-bar. Work your way there in small steps. The screws must still grip securely; the mounting must not develop any loose play. This is our practical tip – not a factory specification from HPI.
Include the rear axleThe T-bar is part of the rear axle setup. Assess changes alongside turn-in, maintaining the drift angle and the car's response to measured throttle inputs, rather than in isolation.
Your checkChange only one setting and drive the same line several times before making another adjustment.
11Tune the gyro step by stepIncrease gain until wobble begins, then dial it back a little.
Increase the gain in small steps until the steering shows the first signs of restlessness or wobble. Then dial it back a little until the steering stays calm. Work by feel rather than a blanket percentage – the goal is calm steering without wobble.
12Reduce power and apply throttle gentlyOur starting point: 75% maximum throttle output; apply throttle gently on corner exit.
You do not always need full motor power. Try reducing the throttle output on your transmitter. Our starting point for DriftTracks mats is 75% of maximum throttle output. With our setup, this makes the car easier to catch after a measured throttle blip on corner entry and less likely to spin. On corner exit, apply only a very small amount of throttle gently until traction builds again. Then gradually increase the throttle.
Electronics after mechanicsGyro and throttle settings let you refine driving feel. They cannot compensate for binding front suspension, rubbing wheels or unsuitable geometry.
Your checkCheck the mechanics first, then change one setting at a time and test with carefully measured throttle.
4. Train your driving feel
Now it's about your feel on the controls.
- Practise clean lines repeatedly.
- Practise your own, well-measured counter-steering inputs. Less gyro can be more.
- Apply throttle gently: on corner exit, start with very little until traction builds again.
Test each change separately and check the steering after every adjustment.
Practice makes perfect. With a smooth-running chassis, a suitable setup and a bit of training, you can get closer and closer to the calm, realistic driving look in the videos above.
DriftTracks · Stage-D24
From workbench checks to a clean line.
HPI Stage-D24: a small Supra that likes going sideways
Want to drift at home without first choosing a motor, servo and gyro separately? The HPI Racing Stage-D24 comes assembled, with rear-wheel drive, electronics and a transmitter. The battery and USB charger are included too.
HPI offers the Stage-D24 as a 2024 Toyota GR Supra in two colours: 161267 in Prominence Red and 161268 in Metallic Dawn Blue. Both are technically the same; colour does not affect your track choice.
What we like is being able to drive first. You can focus on throttle and counter-steering rather than assembling a complete custom chassis before your first lap. When you want to start tinkering, there is still plenty to explore.
This guide combines our practical setup sequence with equipment information, optional steering modifications and track selection. Start with free suspension movement, then check ride height, camber and toe before adjusting bumpsteer. Our values describe our build, not mandatory settings for every HPI.
What the HPI D24 includes
The Stage-D24 is 183 mm long. Beneath the Supra body is a chassis developed specifically for rear-wheel-drive drifting. Its key specifications:
- Rear-wheel drive with a 37T brushed motor: a rigid differential connection, called a spool, makes both rear wheels turn together.
- Up to 67.5 degrees of steering angle according to HPI: the front axle provides the counter-steering range used in a drift.
- Adjustable wheelbase from 95 to 110 mm, with 102 mm as the factory setting. This also matters for a later body conversion.
- Integrated gyro, adjustable directly from the transmitter.
The D24 has independent front suspension and T-bar rear suspension, where a flexible plate provides part of the suspension movement. HPI's “3-Gear Transmission” describes three gear wheels, not a three-speed gearbox.
Supra body with lights and magnetic mounting
The officially licensed Toyota GR Supra has a rigid plastic body, not a thin Lexan shell. It comes in red and metallic blue with clear windows and front and rear LED lights. Magnets hold the body in place, without visible body clips. Additional drift stickers are included.
Lift the body carefully when changing the battery: a cable connects the lighting to the chassis. Do not simply pull the body far upwards.
What else you need to start
The RTR set includes the TF-805 transmitter, a 7.4-volt 360 mAh LiPo battery and a USB balance charger. You also need four AA batteries for the transmitter and a suitable USB power supply rated at least 2 A.
Charge the battery, check the basic settings against the manual and then start driving.
Adjust the gyro during your first drives
The gyro assists counter-steering. On the D24, channel 5 on the transmitter adjusts gyro gain, so you do not need to find a dial under the body.
Use the gyro step in the shared setup section for our adjustment sequence. Start with a steady circle and then a figure of eight. Choose the assistance that lets you guide the car cleanly; reducing it as far as possible is not a requirement for “proper” drifting.
Tuning tip: more steering angle on the HPI Stage-D24
One approach is carefully shortening the mechanical steering stops. Before using pliers, establish what actually limits your car: servo travel, a stop or a joint that is already binding.
Extra mechanical travel only helps when steering can use it freely. The aim is more usable counter-steering range, not the biggest number on a photo.
Use the existing steering travel first
Check Steering Dual Rate on the TF-805 first. It changes the travel commanded by the transmitter. HPI also describes EPA calibration for travel that is too small or unequal between left and right.
Check these settings before modifying parts. The electronics may simply not be using all the available travel.
Modify steering stops carefully
Disconnect the battery and remove the affected parts. Identify exactly where the stop contacts. Our tip is to clip the clearly identified small steering stops on the knuckle with suitable pliers. Leave joint mounts and load-bearing areas untouched.
Reassemble and check. Remove small amounts over several checks rather than too much at once. Work on both sides so steering can move freely in either direction.
Check full steering lock with the front suspension compressed and the body fitted. Tyres must not rub, ball joints must not bind and the linkage must stay within its usable movement range. The servo should move the wheels, not push against resistance.
Changing the stops is permanent. It is an optional modification for experienced builders, not a prerequisite for enjoying the D24.
Readjust the electronics afterwards
For the stock TF-805 and SRL-805 combination, HPI describes this EPA calibration: press the receiver's bind button five times, hold the transmitter wheel fully left, then fully right, then return to centre. Receiver LED flashes confirm the steps. The procedure is on page 14 of the TF-805 manual.
Essential after clipping the stops: adjust steering EPA endpoints on the transmitter separately for left and right so the wheels cannot fold over. Start with limited travel. Calibration does not replace checking for mechanical binding. Afterwards, check both your steering input and the gyro's counter-steering movement. Limit travel and resolve the cause if parts contact or bind.
Drive slowly at first and readjust gyro assistance. Do not change tyres, suspension and surface at the same time, or you will not know what made the difference.
Which driving surface works with the D24?
Start on a clean, flat surface and keep using it while learning the car. Rather than choosing solely by labels such as “tiles”, “carpet” or “plastic”, test how your car and tyres behave on the actual surface.
A printed track also gives you a concrete task: hit the same corner, transition at the same point and control the exit. That is what we develop our 1:24 PVC drift tracks for.
Adjust surface behaviour with Track Reload
For our printed PVC tracks, Track Reload can reduce excessive grip and refresh the sliding behaviour.
Remove dust, apply the product sparingly to a microfibre cloth and spread a very thin layer. Polish away residue, allow it to air off completely and then drive a few slow test laps. Also follow the application instructions supplied with the product.
A thick, uneven layer is not the aim. Treated surfaces can be very slippery and should not be walked on.
The right HPI D24 drift track for your home
Roll out our 1:24 PVC drift tracks to drive and store them afterwards. Printed corners, track edges and clipping zones provide orientation. Asphalt styling, tyre marks and other details add the atmosphere.
Start with your available space. Measure the clear floor area, allowing room for where you stand and clearance from furniture. Compare the actual mat dimensions. The car needs room to travel sideways, not just in a straight line.
For your first laps, we would choose a flowing layout with clear transitions. Practise holding a drift and moving into the next corner rather than automatically picking the track with the most tight turns.
Our conclusion: drive first, then develop the setup
We like that the HPI D24 does not require a custom electronics package before the first drift. It gives you a complete starting point, with scope to explore steering and your own build later.
Drive your first batteries in stock form and learn throttle, steering and gyro. Then work through the shared setup steps: free suspension, ride height, camber/toe and bumpsteer, testing one change at a time. Our measurements are starting points, not factory prescriptions. Free movement matters more than reaching a particular camber number; toe-out on droop remains an experiment, not automatic straightening.
And “just one more lap” might turn into another whole evening.
Equipment information: September 2026; setup revised October 2026. DriftTracks sells drift tracks and track accessories, not vehicles. There is no partnership with HPI Racing. The mechanical tuning guidance is not a manufacturer manual.
Article photos
The right track for your setup
Unsere PVC-Driftstrecken werden in Deutschland gefertigt, sind vom Verlauf auf Drift ausgelegt und in mehreren Größen erhältlich.